WHITE MASAI

26.-27.02.2011

For a minute our driver wondered how on earth we were supposed to get off the road leading to Kenya onto the narrow path which would not be distinguished as a road to the unknowing eye. A few moments of excitement as he carefully maneuvered the van down a steep rocky hill followed by 10 minutes of bumpy ride across fields, higher and higher up the hills until we finally reached our Burma, the collection of huts forming the home of our hosts. This weekend was to be spent with the Masai-tribe in their village, in an authentic fashion. Some Masai trips organized for tourists start off with a glass of champagne which couldn’t be further from the truth. The Masai live a modest lifestyle of herding cows and sheep far from the fanciness of modern living.  We were immediately treated to lunch in one of the huts. Newspapers and cut candy wrappers covered the walls and ceiling as decorations. The huts are made of wood as support beams, straw on the ceiling and a mixture of mud, poop and ash to cover the gaps. Wood collecting is a male job and women do the rest. As a celebrative welcome 12 Masai women danced and sang for us. We joined them in the dance which consists mainly of jumping up and down and bouncing your shoulders to shake the big necklaces.

Stomachs full we started our trek to a Burma which looked to be nearby, but actually took 20 minutes to walk to. The Masai may walk for 10 hours a day from place to place with their animals and our car was the only motorized vehicle around. We met a 97 year old man who has 96 children and grandchildren with nine wives. In Masai tradition the norm is to have three to five wives. With just one you’d be considered only half a man. This elder’s father had 22 wives so the numbers have decreased significantly. The last time he got Mzungu visitors a year ago he had told them endless stories of events in the tribe. Unfortunately his aging mind had done tricks and this time he kept repeating the same things. We sat there as he asked us questions and met some of his family and he seemed very pleased with our visit. Such a sweet old man.

The Masai market held every Saturday was a unique experience. For the first time in Tanzania we felt like outsiders and the reception wasn’t as warm as what we’re used to in Moshi where people are used to foreigners. The cattle market was something I could have only imagined from the Little House on the Prairie. Cattle and pigs and goats and chickens everywhere only held in place by the string in the owner’s hand. It was incredibly hot though so none of them seemed interested in moving an inch. Cows for the Masai are like money for Bill Gates. The more you have the richer you are. The market had things for sale from vegetables to fabrics and jewellery to shoes made from old tires. Smiling children were constantly trying to go in our pocket’s which was quite annoying. Many Masai children hold out their hand for money as soon as they spot a Mzungu. The tribe is poor and I suppose parents teach their kids to look cute and hope for some change.

Our guide suddenly directed the driver to turn left right into the middle of a field. Well off we went up a very steep hill rollercoaster style. What opened before us at the top was an endless view of fields and hills; the land of the Masai. According to our guide it would take at least two weeks to walk to the other end. Many children were walking around with their cows and goats. How a child of about seven can spend the day with so many animals and bring all of them home is a mystery. The animals must be worn down by heat or then for some reason have an entirely different nature from the one’s at home. No straps or fences just open fields, 10 to 50 animals and little kids with a stick.

In the evening we got a real treat (or so they say). Sacrificing a goat is part of all Masai celebrations and they did it in the honor of our visit. One of the elders always cuts the throat of the animal. The soldiers then clean out the insides and cook it. Although I’m not a fan of killing animals and don’t even like to eat meat, there was something so natural in the way the creature turned from an animal to meat in a matter of seconds. It would have been impolite to gag so I watched through squinted eyes and took deep breaths. The Masai use every single part of the body except for the eyes and a couple of internal organs. The skin came off with such skill. Mostly all the rest of the animal is eaten, including the blood and the brain. Would do Western children some good to know where their food is coming from. As should Western slaughterhouses learn from these men’s respect towards the animal for providing them with tonight’s dinner.

After sitting by a camp fire underneath a gazillion stars (even saw milky way!) I slept alright in a tent right next to cows who seemed to be having a rough night as well judging by the amount of mooing. In the morning I was able to fill everyone in on the events of the night from wild dogs fighting to drunk Masai men making their way towards their huts.

Rise and shine at six in the morning, a quick breakfast followed by a three hour hike to the top of a hill with more incredible scenery. What a lovely way to start the day!

Grabbed lunch, said our goodbyes to our hosts and new Masai friends as we eagerly a waited for the last spectacle of our native weekend: a traditional healer. We sat down in a dark hut and waited our turn. The healer started by asking a few questions about each of us during our turn like whether or not we are students or in working life. Incredibly enough the woman told all of us separately what aches and problems with our body we have and she was correct on the first try! According to her I’ll travel for a while after finishing school, work far from my hometown, will get married soon and have a baby girl… Time will tell… but she was right with so many things…. hmmm… ;D